Ten foodie reasons to visit the Seychelles

We recently visited friends in the exotic Seychelles were I discovered Creole cuisine - a mixture of Indian, Chinese, African and French tastes. They make curries that are surprisingly mild; coconut milk feature as expected in most dishes; and mango chutney and basmati rice are standard accompaniments to most dishes. Everything has a distinctive sweet and sour taste.

The food fare is surprisingly varied for such a small island, but here are ten specialities typical of the Seychelles I most enjoyed.

1. Fruit bat curry

Bat curry? Yup, you heard right. On the Air Seychelles flight over a friendly air hostess recommended this strange dish when I asked her about typical Seychelles food. According to her and the equally amiable Seychelles women sitting in the row next to me, fruit bat curry and fish curries are as truly Seychelles as you can get.

Apparently the Seychellois breed fruit bats for this delicacy.

Unfortunately, (or should I rather say fortunately?) we couldn't find any bat curry, as everyone were saving their bats for curries that would be served at the annual Creole Festival that was due to start the week after we left.

2. Fish on the coals at the street market

We visited the Wednesday evening market at the beautiful Beau Vallon beach on Mahé, the main island of the 155 islands that make up the Seychelles. It's a small street market with a selection of local foods and drinks on offer at very reasonable prices for an island that is generally very expensive.

Beau Vallon beach on Mahé

Fruit Stall at the street market

As we wandered among the food stalls we could smell the mouthwatering aromas of barbecued Mackerel and Tuna kebabs. I was disappointed I wasn't hungry enough to have both, so I only tried the Tuna kebab. It was deliciously well done and marinated with tangy Creole sauce, definitely not your average half-raw Michelin star restaurant tuna. The smoky barbecue taste made it the best tuna I have ever tasted. At 25 Rupees, or about R20 per kebab I couldn't complain.

Barbecued Mackerel

Barbecued fish at the street market

3. Palm wine or Calou

The Seychellois make a palm wine from sap collected from a coconut tree. We bought a cup of this potent wine from a seller that looked like he had already tried to much of his own supply. It tasted similar to pineapple beer but with a scarily strong alcohol kick. We all took a sip and decided to pour the rest out as we feared instant and permanent brain damage.

Palm wine sellers

4. Home made juice

At one of the stands selling fresh home made juices I bought a bottle of the most wonderful guava juice I've ever tasted. It was as pure as you can ever imagine fruit juice from a tropical island can be, with none of stuff that gives one that annoying scratchy throat sensation you get from factory-made and preservative-laden juices.

I also tried Soursop juice, made from the Soursop fruit.

Soursop fruit

It had a unique refreshing fruit salad taste that I found delicious. It tasted like a mix of litchi, pineapple, banana and strawberry flavours combined in one sip. It is packed with vitamin C and B and are believed to be cancer preventing as well.

5. Shark ice cream

Shark is the unlikely name of a popular local ice cream found in most of the small, intriguing little grocery shops that dot the island. One of the not-to-be-missed flavours they make is coconut - creamy with real pieces of coconut flesh. It made my own home-made coconut ice cream taste bland in comparison.

The best coconut ice cream

6. Coconut water

Of course we had the obligatory coconut water drink, straight from a fresh, brightly orange coloured coconut. What's an tropical island holiday without it?

Charl , drinking coconut water - from the nature's cup

It's a treat to watch the coconut seller skillfully and with a certain flamboyant flair prepare the coconut. He even jazzed it up with a hibiscus flower. 'For the ladies,' he said when handing them to us with a smile.

It was an interesting taste, not at all what I expected, since it doesn't taste like coconut at all. I found it quite watery with a slight fermented sting on the tongue. There was more of it inside than I imagined - about 300ml in the immature coconut - and is packed with electrolytes, vitamins and antioxidants. The immature flesh inside the coconut is a yucky jelly mass that doesn't look or taste appetising at all. It also felt like a shame to discard the coconut when the drink was finished!

With most things one buys in the Seychelles, a price has to be negotiated beforehand. The price changed from 50 Rupees per coconut to 40 for three on production of my friend Karin's resident card, quite a nice discount!

7. Mature coconut

At home I use desiccated coconut in the dished I prepare. During our Seychelles visit I had coconut flesh straight from a de-husked, mature coconut for the first time ever. The coconut looks like a small, hairy brown wooden ball that is broken into pieces to reveal the white copra or flesh inside. There is a tasty bit of juice inside the coconut that tastes yummy - exactly as I expected coconut water to be.

We polished a coconut between three of us in a few minutes. It's rich and tasty, and again, truly a tropical island sort of thing.

Coconuts

Me, drinking coconut water from a mature coconut

8. Fish in banana leaf

Baked fish in banana leaf is as tropical island as you can get. The fish steak is covered with a Creole sauce made of tomato, onion and spices and then wrapped in a banana leaf before baking. It steams in this leafy "pocket" leaving a tasty, flaky, soft fish as the result.

It is served with basmati rice and a yummy mango chutney made from finely chopped green mangoes.

Fish in Banana leaf

9. Red snapper

The Seychellois live of the sea, and it is truly heart-warming to see their relationship and respect for the sea.

Spear Fisherman looking for the catch of the day

One of the common fishes in Seychelles is Red Snapper. While staying at the pretty island of La Dique I had a baked, whole filleted Red Snapper with a tomato "ragu" or sauce. The fish was fresh and tasted of the sea, and the ragu was the perfect accompaniment.

10. Fruits and jam

The Seychellois love their mangos to be unripened and green. It must be an island thing, since we found it to be the same in Zanzibar when we visited there a few years ago. At the hotel we stayed over in we had a breakfast starter of cut unripe fruit in the morning. I liked it, but sour fruit is not for everyone's palate.

Fruit starter for breakfast 

Not being a sweet tooth I'm not a big jam fan, but I can definitely recommend the local Starfruit and Belimbi jams. Both of these locally produced and rather sour fruits make excellent jams. The Belimbi tree is also called a Cucumber tree, as its fruit look like cucumbers that grow directly from the trunk of the tree.

Jams for breakfast

I wished I could stay longer to explore more of the Seychelles cuisine and try my hand at cooking with the local produce. Perhaps next time...

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